Chang Mai and Pai

Chiang Mai and Pai

Chiang Mai

Sticky Waterfalls

Getting to Chiang Mai was our longest journey yet. It started with a local bus from Pak Song to Ranong (2 AUD pp). This was a measly 30 minutes- child’s play. Then an overnight bus from Ranong to Bangkok (21 AUD pp). Here it started getting good, this was a solid 10 hours. What’s that I hear you say? Yes I agree this wasn’t quite long enough to sit on a bus. So we swapped on over to a bus from Bangkok to Chiang Mai (15.60 AUD pp) this was a lovely 12 hours. All up (including wait time for buses) we were travelling for 32 hours. Yes we made it, and without killing each other! 

Side note: Just a heads up if you are travelling through Thailand the online website to book buses through is 12goAsia however this is much more expensive than going to the bus terminal to buy your tickets directly. 

As we drove into Chiang Mai the rain started. Thankfully unlike Pak Song in the wet season it tends to only downpour in the late afternoon/ evening so you can enjoy the rest of the day without being soaking wet. A friend we met, Eden, recommended we stay at Like Home guest house. This was the best decision we have made. Nuy the owner is so welcoming. As soon as we got there she asked for our dirty washing (which she washed free of charge). This was just the start of her hospitality.  She then cooked us a vegetarian breakfast and dinner, every single day that we were there. Did I mention that this accommodation was only 7.60 AUD pp? Along with the free food she helped teach us how to cook a variety of Thai dishes. Our favourite part about Nuy though would have to be her contagious laugh.

Luke, Sally, Nuy and I

Chiang Mai is the second largest city in Thailand but it does not have any large sky scrapers. The town has personality. Generally Luke and I don't particularly like spending too much time in cities however we ended up spending the most amount of time here than any other place we have been so far. If I’m being honest our days have been pretty slow and we were just getting to know our way around. However let me run you through a few of the things we did.

Make sure if you go to Chiang Mai you are there over a weekend. On saturday and sunday nights they have a huge street market. Basically the streets close down in Old Chiang Mai and are lined with stalls. Here we finally tried durian for the first time. Durian is known as the king of fruit and is very popular throughout Asia (there are even durian mcflurrys at mcdonalds over here). It is a large creamy yellow fruit that smells like a combination of something sweet and sewerage. From what we tasted Luke, Sally and I all agree that it tastes like onion. Although I didn't love my first try I would definitely be willing to try it again. Along with food at the markets there is heaps of apparel. Everyone should be proud, I yet again showed restraint and didn't buy everything that I wanted. 

If you aren’t lucky enough to be in Chiang Mai over the weekend there is also a night bazaar (more markets) on every night of the week in a different area in the city (type it into maps.me and it will come up). These are still good but I definitely preferred the others. 

Night Bazaar

Our first adventure in Chaing Mai was taking a trip to the sticky waterfalls. These waterfalls are unlike any I have ever been to. You are able to climb up and down the face of the waterfall - something that goes against every instinct in my body. This is due to mineral deposits that give the ground the consistency halfway between a pumice stone and concrete. We loved it there especially before the crowds of tourists arrived!

Sally had a birthday whilst we were here so we all splurged and got Thai massages. - It's great getting a present on someone elses birthday! There are so many Thai massage boutiques and it is becoming popular to learn Thai massage in Chiang Mai also (something to add to the list for next time!).

Sally and I also went to a Jewellery making work shop. And no it wasn't with beads or plaiting friendship bracelets. We got to design and craft our own pieces using silver. We went through Nova Artlab and chose to make ourselves a ring each. We were lucky in that there was only two of us in the class (can be a maximum of 6 people) so we got plenty of assistance when required. I would definitely recommend giving this class a go! It was pretty expensive but well worth the money. 

Whilst we were finding our creative side at the jewellers Luke rented a scooter for the day (4 AUD) and went up to Doi Suthep. This is a mountain overlooking Chiang Mai with a beautiful temple on top. When I asked Luke for his synopsis of his trip this is what I got, “Beautiful. Windy Road. Lot’s of people”. Whilst Luke was coming home he was a rebel and got pulled over by the police. Turns out you need to have an international motorbike license as well as car license in Thailand in order to ride a scooter. The maximum fine is 1000 Baht (43 AUD). Luke couldn't pay this as he only had 80 baht on him so he was let off the hook and drove his scooter home without a fine. Unfortunately fate wasn’t as kind the following day when he was pulled over whilst driving us to a pottery class. Here we had to pay a 500 baht fine. But we could continue to ride the scooter (figure that one out).

At the top of Doi Suthep

At the top of Doi Sut Hep

We did throwing (pottery using the wheel) at InClay studio. We learnt how to make a bowl and a cup. It is so much harder than it looks but very enjoyable. This is something that I have wanted to do since I was a little girl so I was so excited to be able to do it. Initially I was frustrated when I couldn't get it right away (it doesn't sound like me, I'm not a perfectionist at all) but slowly once you get the basics it was great. We could have got our finished pieces sent home to Australia but we decided that it wasn’t worth the 500 baht in postage. 

Luke Potter..

Pai 

Luke and I headed off on a scootering adventure to Pai whilst Sally completed an overnight meditation retreat. This infamous trek from Chiang Mai to Pai isn’t for the faint hearted. It took us 4.5 hours, and I don't think I have ever had a bum that was so numb in all of my life. That being said it was such a cool experience and would definitely recommend to anyone who has moderate scooter experience. The roads were the windiest I have ever been on. I definitely wouldn't have survived if I was in the car. But with the wind in my hair (don't worry mum I had a helmet on) the nausea was kept a bay. The road was full of hairpin corners, luckily the road wasn’t to busy but you need to keep an eye out for people cutting blind corners regularly. 

Stretching out the legs to get some feeling back,
3 hours into the ride 

Moo-ve off the road

Our accommodation at Countryside Pai, 16 AUD a night

Walk from our accommodation to the centre of Pai

Pai is a little tourist hot spot for hippies. It is set in a valley surrounded by mountains and has rice fields within walking distance of the centre of the town. It is filled with vegetarian cafes, night markets every night and delicious restaurants. There are also plenty of waterfalls and hot springs to visit. Unfortunately Luke got sick- again. This time with a brutal case of the man flu. Whilst Luke was slowly dying (poor thing) I enjoyed a few of the cafes, a swim in the pool, a trip to the canyon and some leisurely walks around the town. Apart from that we stayed pretty low. 

Pai Canyon

Toe off phase of gait cycle

We loved the laid back atmosphere in both Chiang Mai and Pai and will happily return to either place. For now it's time to board a night bus to Bangkok. Here we say goodbye (for now) to Sally, whilst Luke and I head on over to Yangon, Myanmar and Sally departs to Malaysia! 

Love always,

Claire and Luke (Luke was enjoying an 8 hour bus ride whilst I wrote this so he counts as a co-author too right?)

Not a bad view