Arugam Bay, Sri Lanka

Arugam Bay

After our Safari In Yala National Park it was time to head back to the sea. This time we headed to the most popular beach side town on the eastern side of Sri Lanka, Arugam Bay. Paradise, paradise, paradise... or that’s what we were told. Arugam Bay is known for its world class surf breaks and beautiful beaches. 

Main Beach Arugam Bay on High Tide

To reach Arugam Bay from Tissa you have to catch three buses (or if you’re lucky only two). We probably should've organised our time better and left our accomodation earlier than 12pm, as the whole journey took us 6 hours to get 150km in the heat of the day. The first bus took us from Tissa to Monoragala. I honestly don't know how we got onto this bus. It was so packed in that we could hardly stand up. Personal space does not exist on buses in Sri Lanka. Luke and I stood for the entire journey (and by standing I mean barely having space on the floor to put our feet). The buses stop every hundred metres to pick up and drop off people. Let me tell you, the bus drivers try to make up for lost time in between stops by speeding and swerving past traffic, adding to the enjoyable comfort for passengers. We were delighted to get off the first bus as we thought that it couldn't get any worse. We were wrong (first for everything right).The bus was so full that Luke was literally hanging out the door holding onto the side mirror. Luke is adamant that this was the best place to be. While I was one of the sardines sweating bullets, stuck on the bus, Luke had fresh air, and a sprinkle of rain to cool him off. 

Fisherman shantys 

The best part of our trip occurred as we neared our final destination. As the sun was setting over a national park we were driving past, there was a family of elephants! We saw six elephants, including a calf. The bus driver pulled over so everyone could enjoy the moment and have a good look at the majestic animals. 

On Main Beach

Once we (eventually) arrived at Arugam Bay we walked to our accommodation from the bus stop. By this time it was 7pm and all we wanted to do was have a shower, have some food and go to bed. Turns out just because you book accomodation in Arugam bay does not mean when you get there they will hold your room. First in best dressed. Once we arrived at Azeers Place ($10 AUD) we were sitting around talking to the host for 10 minutes before they told us that we didn’t have a room. Thankfully they had a friend with a room around the corner that we stayed in for the night. 

I guess our expectations were a little high for A Bay because as we headed to the beach and started to explore this touristy haven we were only disappointed. The main beach itself was alright, but nothing special, and the only surf break was packed (think Byron bay) with beginners. Which is fine, everybody has to learn (including me) but they were literally surfing over the top of one another. Not really our cup of tea. There are a few other surf beaches near Arugam Bay, Elephant Rock and Peanut Farm. We had heard that these breaks were better and less crowded, however, the only way to get there was a tuk tuk which cost around $15-20 AUD for a round trip. This price was ridiculously expensive considering that you also have to hire a board ($10 AUD for the day) unless you bring your own. As much as we love surfing we were not about to pay in excess off $30 for a wave. Instead we opted to spend our days lazing in the sun and drinking coffee. On Sundays the main beach is filled with local families young and old enjoying the beach on their day off. All playing with each other in the water (and trying not to get taken out by beginner surfers).

Whilst swimming you have to watch out for local fisherman puling up in their boats

Local selling icecream from his bicycle

We personally enjoyed the beaches on the south west coast more then Arugam but that is only our opinion, a lot of other travellers we met had completely different opinions and loved the place. If you love partying then it seems to be a good place to go. Luke and I were in need of some chill days so thats exactly what we did.

After three nights (and Azeers double booking our room again!) we had had enough and decided to leave the beach behind. Next we are heading to Ella which is 1000 metres above sea level and home of the famous Nine arch bridge.

Love,

Claire and Luke (Luke actually co-authored this one, I'm as shocked as you are)